Charge the batteries as soon as possible after the dive, long periods of heavy discharge will shorten the life of the batteries.
Some battery manufacturers recommend the batteries be charged in the upright position. Do not charge batteries upside down.
When the scooter is charged, unplug from charger, replace lid with the o-ring removed so the hull can have ventilation. Do a top up charge for 12-24 hours before the dive.
Pre-dive:
When replacing the nose cone, ensure nothing obstructs its full insertion. There is a 1" perimeter on the top bulkhead that contacts the nose cone; this is where objects may prevent to correct sealing of the scooter.
Place the nose cone on, press it down with hand pressure; there should be no air gaps all the way around the 0-ring BEFORE the spring clips are engaged.
Make sure all spring clips are engaged; if 1 or more spring clips are unclipped the scooter will leak.
Always check the charge of the scooter, either doing a last minute charge or checking the voltage, which should be 25.5-26.4 volts. For cave dives or whenever you want more confidence that the batteries are holding a full charge, a resister (burn tester) is available from Submerge to simulate motor current draw.
It is recommended to only connect the scooter immediately before the dive, to prevent the accidental activation of the propeller, which could cause injury and also cause the rear seal to burn out and leak.
Dive:
The scooter is simple to operate, but may take some practice to hone technique. A DPV class is recommended. Only the fingertips of 1 hand should be required for all but drastic direction changes, when the edge of the prop shroud may need to be gripped.
The scooter tow-rope is most comfortable if attached to a 2" wide crotch strap which is attached to the backplate or the back of your diving rig.
It is important to use a crotch strap attached the back of the harness/rig for best results; attaching to waist strap without a crotch strap will tend to pull your rig over your head. The biggest mistake made with the tow-behind scooters is having the scooter too close to the diver. This results in slow speeds, short burn times, entanglement with other equipment, and an uncomfortable ride. For the best results, the scooter should be as close to a full arms length away as possible. If you are fighting the scooter, you are doing something wrong.
The body and cylinders should be in a horizontal position, the head should be fully tilted back to see ahead. Fins should be level with or better yet above the chest level, with no downward force on the fins. The thrust from the propellers must pass below or to the side of the diver without hitting either the diver or any equipment such as stage cylinders, lights, gauges for best results. (Cylinders hung from the right hand side will reduce speed and range, up to 4 cylinders can be comfortable hung from the left hand side if they are aluminium).
It is important to be neutrally buoyant at all times, otherwise the scooter power is being wasted maintaining your position in the water column. It is also very difficult to scooter on the surface, as you can't maintain correct body position. If you find yourself facing a long scooter it is always best to take a compass heading and scooter a few feet underwater. Remember that strong currents may only extend 20-30 feet from the surface so descending below this level may enable you to scooter much faster.
We start with a 8' length of tow rope and shorten to size. We use a sliding knot which can be adjusted without having to tie underwater can save time when adjusting the tow rope. We use a prusic knot or the similar taught-line hitch as used to adjust tent peg ropes.
It is also important to have the clip on the tow rope sliding; when turning left and right the tow rope changes length. If the clip is tied off the scooter will be very difficult to control.
The variable pitch mechanism can be adjusted by stopping, gripping a prop in 1 hand and turning the hub with the other. Clockwise is for higher speed. Some props can be adjusted by a quick twist with one hand.
For best results, especially with the high performance motors as used in Submerge scooters, it is recommended to slightly de-pitch the props, usually ¼ turn back from full pitch to # 7 is effective. Testing has shown that the props are least efficient at full pitch. De-pitching by to #7 has been shown to lower current draw by as much as 30% with less than 5% drop in speed.
CAUTION: Full speed #9 pitch is intended for short periods only. Be especially cautious of using #9 pitch if you have a lot of drag, for instance more than 1 stage or towing another diver.
#7 pitch is the most efficient combination of speed and range/burntime. If you need a long range and the speed is less important, we would recommend pitch #5.
Running the props at full pitch for long periods with a heavy equipment load will Result in short burn times and the possibility of burning out the motor.
If you need to drop your scooter, or whenever you are not scootering such as deco, it is important to de-pitch the props to #1 position, and lock the trigger. (Pre-2002 scooters do not have a drilled hole in the trigger mechanism to enable the thumb screw to be fully inserted and mechanically lock off the trigger, this is an easy fix with a drill and a ¼" drill bit)
Failure modes:
It must be assumed the scooter may stop completely or stick and or switch on at any time. If you are scootering through a dangerous area, it is safer to completely de-pitch the props and either leave the scooter or swim through the area than leaving the props pitched up.
In the event of a run-away (stuck on) scooter, most divers simply either run the scooter until deco is over, or tie it off. Then simply dis-connect as soon as you get out of the water. Once the shaft seal is wet, it can run for several minutes without damage so don't worry about damaging the seal in this situation.
If you wish to slow down with a run-away scooter, practice positioning your body vertically and directing the prop wash directly at your chest. This will virtually stop you completely. Just be sure not to pull it too close to your body or you may entangle equipment in the prop.
Also effective to slow a run-away scooter is to push your palm against the pitch adjusting knob; this will de-pitch the props to #1 position. Practice this before you need it.
Another procedure which is rarely required, (as the above procedure is so effective) is to grip the spinning prop blades with your hand. The prop will then slip on the clutch plate, but you will be able to de-pitch the props to #1 position making the scooter much easier to handle. The same technique can be used to increase speed after you have regained control at the slowest pitch.
A sticking on scooter may be caused by the magnet switch being jammed, so check this first. If this is not the problem, it is either a reed switch or relay failure which can't be fixed underwater. See trouble shooting section. It is important to keep fishing line and other entanglements away for the rear shaft seal. Failure to do so will result in the compromise of the rear shaft seal, and motor flooding. Should the motor flood in salt water, remove the motor from the scooter, rinse with fresh water then soak in mineral spirits. Ship back to Submerge for service.
Post-dive:
It is recommended to dis-connect scooter as soon as is practical after the dive, to prevent possible damage and personal injury from moving parts. This is easy with the UV scooter as the connector is in the nose.
The UV scooters are constructed with corrosion resistant materials, however care must be taken after every dive (especially in salt water) to prevent electrolysis, a form of corrosion between dissimilar materials.
Particular care must be taken of the rear shaft area, as the shaft is vulnerable to corrosion if salt water is allowed to remain in the rear hub assembly between dives. If there is no moisture present, there will be no electrolysis.
After each dive, it is recommended to soak the back end of the scooter in fresh water, preferably for an hour or more. Running the props in fresh water with the pitch tuned down also helps flush salt water from the hub assembly. After the soak, the tail cone can be squirted with a small amount of a water dispersing spray such as WD-40(tm). Be sure to stand the scooter on it's nose and give a quick squirt between the hub and the tail cone.
If time and facilities are limited a good rinse with fresh water concentrating on the hub/shaft area followed by a squirt of WD-40 will suffice.
Trouble shooting and maintenance notes
Slow scooter:
check for correct position of pitch adjustment knob. Setting the the pitch adjustment knob in the correct position. The correct position is when the scooter only just moves forward when the pitch is on #1 (an important safety feature) and the props do not "bind up" when they are set to the #9 position. In the #9 position, the props should never be tight against the hub, or require extra force to turn the last ¼ turn.
Water in the battery compartment may be due to the nose cone being obstructed from full insertion. Be sure the o-rings touch both hull and nose/tail cone before the clips are engaged.
What appears to be water in the hull may be battery acid. Acid can be checked for/neutralized by a paste made of baking soda and water. Acid will foam up. The batteries must both be replaced, even if only 1 of the batteries leak.
A white film on the aluminum motor compartment is most likely caused by battery acid. This has yet to cause anything but cosmetic damage. Simply neutralize acid with baking soda and clean with soapy water. Storing the scooter laying down will prevent acid from pooling in the back end.
It is normal so see a very light film of condensation on the motor compartment lid for several hours after a dive. This is caused by the moisture in the air sealed in the motor compartment. Check for a real leak by turning the back end upside down, look for water.
If the motor compartment has leaked in fresh water, the relay and hydrogen catalyst must be replaced. The motor can be dried out and re-used if necessary, however it is recommended to ship to Submerge for a check out. Salt water damage is more extensive and the motor must rinsed, soaked in alcohol/ mineral spirits and returned to Submerge for inspection and repair.
A sticking scooter is due to reed switch failure or relay failure. Reed switches can be damaged buy short circuiting during service, shock or mechanical damage. Also, only Submerge approved relays can be used as off the shelf relays may expose the reed switch to very high voltages.
A damaged motor can cause the relay to weld shut. If the scooter continues to stick on after the relay and reed have been replaced, the back end should be sent to Submerge for service.
Motors should never get hot, only warm to the touch. A motor that gets hot should be checked at Submerge to prevent further damage.
O-rings should be replaced every 2 years. It is not necessary to grease the large end cap o-rings, however a regular application of a very light coating of grease does not tend to attract more sand particles than an un-greased O-ring, and can extend the life of the 0-rings. Do not be too concerned if the end cap O-rings show cracks, they have to be really deep cracks before they will ever leak. Replace these at your convenience.
Battery Wiring Images
UV-18
UV-26
UV-42
Submerge UV-26 battery pack assembly
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Parts: 2 x Genesis 26a/h batteries
Bulkhead assembly, ring spacer,
4 x 6mm S/S bolts, wiring harness.
Tools required:
1 x 7/16th wrench, 1 x 7/16 wrench or
adjustable
1 x 10mm socket driver
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This is the alignment of the batteries
to the bulkhead.
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Step 1:
remove nuts and washers from top bulkhead
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2:
slide middle bulkhead up about 1/2"
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3:
Slide battery in, making sure not to
damage wires.
NOTE position of battery to slot in
the lower spacer.
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4:Replace top bolts loose
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5:Slide in battery
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6: Install spacer.
If it is tight, loosen threaded rod from
the bottom.
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7: tighten top nuts,
being carefull not to over tighten.
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8: This is correct
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9: this is over tightened, note
the top bulkhead is bowed.
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10:attach positive leads, with the
thicker power lead contacting the
battery terminal
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11: Do not over tighten,
a socket driver is all you need
not a wrench.
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12: attach negative leads,
with the thicker power lead contacting
the battery terminal.
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13: Now connect the junper cable,
positive to negavive between the 2
batteries
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Finished!
It should look like this.
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Submerge Prop Assembly
Background:
Experience has shown that the assembly of the hub and props
can cause a lot of problems. Incorrectly assembled components may cause
the clutch to slip, the yoke screw to be broken, and the pitch adjustment
to be out of alignment.
If the pitch adjustment knob is not installed correctly, even if the pitch # is
set to 9 (full speed) the actual pitch can be several pitches lower,
causing the scooter to run very slow.
If you think your scooter is slow, it is probably the pitch adjustment.
Submerge hub/prop assemblies use stock Oceanic Mako components
with these exceptions:
1) Submerge manufactures a replacement clutch plate, similar to the AUL
clutch plate (sometimes referred to as the "WKPP clutch").
We only replace the clutch plate as the other components work.
(note, the extra thickness is on the inside, does not affect position of assembly)
2) We don't pin the props, we drill and thread them and insert a 1.25" set screw.
Inserting a resistance fit dowel pin stresses the plastic, the threaded set screw
does not.
3) We replace the screw in the end of the shaft from the original Phillips head to
an Allen key/hex type. The Phillips head will strip out if the screw seizes in the shaft, a common problem if used in salt water.
Tools required:
Phillips head screw driver, 1/8" Allen key/hex tool.
Drive shaft with seal installed and drive pin installed.
Seal should only be replaced by Submerge, installation
is vacuum tested and warranted.
Slide clutch plate onto shaft, engaging the drive pin.
Inner Hub installed, note Stainless Steel washer.
Install the clutch washer in the correct pattern.
There are 9 clutch washers.
1st washer goes face down
Next 8 washers go on in face to face pairs.
1st washer on, face down.
All clutch washers on.
Screw down, keep the clutch washers centred.
IMPORTANT:
Next, install yoke screw into yoke all the way, finger tight.
Push Yoke into Outer hub, and start installing prop blades.
All prop blades are installed.
Push assembly onto shaft with palm.
Install 3 screws.
If you have followed the directions when the yoke screw was installed into the yoke, The Pitch adjustment can now be installed to #9 position (without turning the yoke screw)
and the pitch should be correct. If the pitch adjustment is correct, when the pitch is wound up to #9 it does not bind up or become harder to wind to the #9 position, AND the prop blades come right up to touch the hub, as shown above, without any gaps.
The last check, if the pitch is set to #1 the scooter should have minimal thrust, this is a safety feature in case the scooter runs on you can de-pitch and the scooter will not pull you or the cave line/silt too much.
Finished!
Last note: the AUL brand hub assembly sometimes used as an aftermarket accessory does not have any pin (see picture below) controlling the pitch adjustment, in other words it can be wound below #1 (even reverse!) and slightly above #9, which can give it more speed than a properly adjusted Oceanic hub.
The danger is it can be wound until it breaks the yoke, the positive is it can give a little more speed at the risk of burning out the motor if used for long periods (>30 minutes) If you only use your scooter in the ocean where it is safer than in caves, and efficiency is not as important, you can adjust the pitch knob 1/4 turn anti clockwise so that when on # 7 it is really on #9.
If you make this modification, you risk breaking the yoke if you use to much force to wind it to #9 (it may only go as far as #8) and when wound to minimum #1 it will still have about 15 pounds of thrust.
OR (not recommended!) you can chisel, grind, file or sand off the pin on the Oceanic hub so that it does not matter where you install the pitch knob, it can then turn below #1 and above #9 without limit, (until you break the yoke!) Picture of the pin below.
Also, the best way to adjust for best speed/efficiency is to wind to full speed for a few seconds, listen to the sound of the motor. Then de-pitch until we can hear the RPM of the motor wind up, then you have taken the load off the motor but you are still travelling at 85-90% of top speed.
This is usually #7 if the pitch knob is on correctly, but will be on # 5 for a knob set to adjust beyond the regular #9 pitch.
Tow rope adjustable knot: Taught line hitch The adjustable knot is used on both sides. It allows fast and
infinite adjustments to to length. The tow clip should be left sliding, so that is always pulls evenly from both sides even when the tow rope length changes, or the you are making a sharp turn with the scooter. (see last 2 pictures on this page)
Note: we cut the tow rope to 8 feet long, I am 6' and can run
it all the way out when cruising so if you are taller add 1'.
Step 1:
Step 2:
The knot on the trailing end will not slide through
to tow rope capture if the knot comes undone.
Stainless Steel Tow rope capture:
*UV-18, UV-26 and UV-38 and Submerge are trademarks of Submerge Inc
